![]() With as much time and energy I’m investing into these windows, I don’t want to substitute on inferior quality materials and take a chance of lessening how long these repairs last.) The hardware stores around me don’t sell and can’t get many of these products. ( I feel the need to insert here that yes, I have had to order many of these window restoration supplies and materials through the internet. It also skins the putty to encourage it to dry faster in prep for painting. With a very soft brush it really does clean the oil residue off of the glass that the putty leaves behind. It’s the same whiting the professionals use, ordered online from the same company that sells the glazing putty. My understanding is that it’s pure limestone powder – it’s not cheap, but it goes a long way. This step is kind of fun, like painting only using a white powder called (what else), whiting. ![]() Once the putty is tooled smooth – or as close as I can get it without losing my patience – I clean up the oily residue the putty leaves on the glass. Corners are a pain in the ass, I have yet to “master” a corner, but I’m getting better on each window. I spend a few minutes on each side of the glass, pressing the putty firmly into place while trying to achieve a smooth texture. Especially in the many videos online of professionals who can flawlessly tool an entire window in seconds. I first use a glazing knife to simply push the putty tight into the groove, then it’s time time tool it smooth. ![]() Then I kind of repeat the process of pushing more putty into the rabbit with my palm, working my hand around the entire sash. (Instead I found an old glass window sash at a yard sale and was able to cut this piece of glass to fit.) The squeeze out putty can be scraped off and re-used, but using more than enough is important so that the glass makes a tight seal. I think they are easier to set into place – and also because my first experience using the more original triangle glazier points resulted in slipping and cracking an original piece of glass, at which point I nearly gave up. Also as carefully as I can, I use my glazing tool to press 2 or 3 glazing points into the groove on each side of the glass. As carefully as I can, and often while holding my breath, I slowly work my hands around the perimeter of the glass, pressing firmly to set the glass into the putty. It’s a little messy, and it results in a lot of excess, but I wan’t squeeze out so that’s ok. ![]() I just move a ball of putty around the rabbit, pressing it in a few inches at a time with my palm. I lay an even thickness of putty along the rabbit on the inside the sash, using more than I need. Working it like play dough for a minute or so with my hands makes it so much softer. I found it easy to work with, kind of like play dough. Recommended by all the pro’s, I use Sarco Glazing Putty, type M. The professionals who have been restoring windows for a while make a bed of the same putty that’s used on the outside of the glass, which is how wood windows would have been assembled originally 100 years ago. Now some contractors say you can lay the glass into the rabbit using caulking or an adhesive. Setting the glass means getting handsy with some glazing putty. Part 2 of restoring my home’s original wood windows.
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